City Matters #2: Why Tacheles and Thaipark had to change
When beloved sights disappear, you hope for innovation - not bland revamps
Hello, dear reader!
Berlin is like a chameleon, forever shedding its skin and donning new colors. But is every new look an improvement? I this edition of "Berlin Curated" I take a closer look at the city's evolving identity through the lens of two recent transformations: the Tacheles' grand makeover and the Thai Market's unexpected relocation. One's a head-turner, the other...a bit of a disappointment. Share your thoughts on the good, the bad, and the ugly of change in Berlin and how it shapes your experience of the capital.
Best regards,
Alice
The Tacheles Makeover: A Symbol of Berlin's Lost Soul?
Until recently, a construction site at the heart of Berlin's center marked the departure from the city's wild side: At Oranienburger Tor, the former beloved cultural center "Tacheles" was gutted and renovated for four years. The building, battered by war and neglect, desperately needed a fix. But the result of the revamp and the reactions are emblematic of what I'd call "conservative progress" – a sanitized, commercialized vision of the future that's erasing Berlin's gritty, creative soul.
Let's rewind a bit. In 1908, the building was constructed as the Friedrichstraßenpassage, a lavish shopping arcade with a distinct modern architecture. In the late 1920s, it became a showroom for the General Electric Company (AEG), displaying the latest home appliances. Then came the Nazis, who occupied the space with their institutions, including the SS. After the war, it was used by various East German institutions, from trade unions to art schools. By 1990, the building was slated for demolition, but a group of artists renamed it to "Tacheles" (Yiddish for "straight talk") and changed its trajectory. They occupied the space, turning it into a haven for punk musicians, experimental artists, and unconventional types.
Here's where the romanticism kicks in. Imagine Berlin in 1990: a city battered by war and political division, yet brimming with hope and creative energy after the Fall of the Wall. Misfits and nonconformists occupied empty spaces across the city, rejecting traditional bourgeois norms. Tacheles became a symbol of this rebellious spirit, a middle finger to the establishment. The fact that it housed the former offices of the SS only added to its subversive appeal.
But the party couldn't last forever. The association that maintained Tacheles went bankrupt, and in 2014, the building was sold to a New York investor.
There are few things that piss Berliners off as much as international investors. Add the cultural relevance the building carried from the transition period of the 1990s and you have a full rejection of change.
In 2019, Tacheles disappeared behind a veil of construction materials. When it finally emerged in late 2023, rebranded as "Am Tacheles," hardly anyone was excited. Sure, some of the edgy walls were preserved, but the overall result was disappointingly bland and predictable. The new concept? Expensive apartments for sale and a branch of the Swedish photography museum Fotografiska, with its brick walls, minimalist furniture, and a safe, poppy Andy Warhol exhibition.
I get it: The building is modern and fits the image of a high-paced metropolitan city. Constant change is part of Berlin's DNA, as the history of Tacheles itself demonstrates. But this specific type of progress feels like a departure from everything that carries real meaning. It's a safe, sanitized vision of the future that caters to the better-off and erases the city's rough edges.
Personally, I wasn't attached to Tacheles in its dilapidated state. I was too young to experience it in its heyday, and I even welcomed some change. But this new, soulless version leaves me cold. Why can't we have aesthetically pleasing renovations that respect the city's unique character? Why do all new buildings have to look so generic? What about you? Do you like the new face of Tacheles?
From Park to Market: The Evolution of Berlin's Beloved Thai Street Food Scene
Last weekend, Berlin's famous "Thai Park" embarked on a new chapter, reopening as Thai Market in Wilmersdorf. After a period of uncertainty, the vendors of beloved East Asian dishes have found a new temporary home at Württembergische Straße – right next to the Preußenpark, easily accessible by metro line U7. The park is where the original street food market thrived for decades, starting in the 1990s as a casual family picnic and growing into one of Berlin's most iconic food spots. Originally, only the Thai community used the space, later Vietnamese and Chinese vendors joined.
I loved the atmosphere there – it was chaotic, but friendly, and the food was both delicious and affordable. Mostly middle-aged ladies were squatting under colorful parasols, chatting and preparing food. You could just get a papaya salad or pad thai and relax sitting the grass with friends. Above all, it felt like a genuine spot where cultures meet and mix and the best possible way - by sharing food. The Thai community has always been welcoming to both local residents of Wilmersdorf as well as to expats who wanted to experience the famous spot.
However, the year-long use of the park had started to affect the ecosystem, and residents had complained about trash and noise in the area. Additionally, concerns about hygene and tax evasion irked the local bureaucrats. The association behind "Thai Park" implemented a successful zero-waste concept, organized cleaners and attempted to negotiate with the authorities for years, yet they ruled that the vendors must leave - or at least resettle.
Last weekend, Thai Market opened and garnered favorable feedback – the food is still fairly cheap, and the variety is plentiful.
Unfortunately, the spot of the market is only temporary. The vendors have to move again in 2026. I will miss the old vibe, but I wish the vendors all the luck with the new location.
Have you visited the new Thai Market yet? Share your thoughts about the new concept in the comments below!
Cool things I recently spotted
The Berliner Berg brewery opened its main facility in 2021 close to Treptower park. I have visited the brewery twice for the Berlin Chili Fest that takes place there. Now, you can watch all games of the Euros there and enjoy varying European sould food. visitberlin.de
There is a place in Wedding (Prinzenallee 83) that hosts two restaurants and only operates for three hours a day: On Mondays and Tuesdays, a Korean couple prepares lunch at “Dal Tokki”, on Wednesdays and Thursdays, their French son-in-law offers authentic galettes at “Planeige”. It’s the same spot that changes its branding. It’s open from 12-3 p.m.
Save the date: Free open-air opera in July 13th. As every year, the Berlin State Opera Orchestra is going to perform outdoors - for free! The event will take place at Bebelplatz - right across the opera (Metro station Unter den Linden or Museumsinsel)